I started liking French cuisine the first time I had garlic-butter escargot and chocolate mousse in high school French class. As my taste buds matured, I experimented with more advanced French cuisine e.g. coq au vin (rooster cooked in wine), Bûche de Noël (chocolate buttercream sponge cake), mille-feuilles (layers of puff pastry and pastry cream), etc. Eventually, I fell in love with specifically Provençal cuisine. Provençal menu items usually take hours to bake or stew, so the result is a heartier and more flavorful meal. While most people spend hours lining up to ascend the Eiffel Tower in anglophone Paris, I spent hours traveling to the less accessible, francophone Provence.
Gordes, my favorite town in Provence
Provence is so named because it was the first Roman province outside of Italy. Being a region of southeastern France, Provence has a sun-blessed climate that makes it ideal for olive growing. Like their Italian neighbors to the east, the people of Provence rely heavily on olive oil for sauces, marinades, and sautéing foods. Weekly farmers' markets sell fresh produce, fruits, and herbs, in addition to olive oil, to ensure the freshest dishes in the whole region. Apparently, frozen foods and T.V. dinners are not fashionable there...neither are Americans.
local farmers' market selling an large assortment of herbs and spices
My favorites, truffles and porcini mushrooms, are so...what's the word, sublime, when they are fresh that I was inspired to cook fresh porcini mushroom risotto with truffle oil the first week I returned to the States. It certainly does not help that fresh porcini mushrooms are $35/lb. at Whole Foods.
Because Provence borders the Mediterranean sea, fish and shellfish are eaten in abundance. In just a few days, we enjoyed sea bass, red mullet, monkfish, mussels, oysters, and scallops. The warm, dry Mediterranean climate forces the local wines to be grown under demanding conditions though, as the grapes ripen quickly. We, however, found one of the best muscats in a town named Beaumes-de-Venise famous for its sweet wine appellation.
Suzette, a small town in Provence surrounded by vineyards
grapes
Best of all, Justin arranged for us to stay at a bed-n-breakfast that served Provençal dinners. So instead of only being pampered with freshly-squeezed apple juice from the orchard next to our bedroom for breakfast, James, our chef, also prepared us dinners. What kind of bed-n-breakfast serves dinners?! I guess this one. James is the son of the couple who ran the bed-n-breakfast, and has been in the professional kitchen since 16 years old under the guidance of a two-star Michelin chef. He does not own a restaurant himself, but only cooks Michelin-rated food for his parents' bed-n-breakfast guests. Kind of an odd fellow, but hey, I am not going to complain about the 5-course dinner he cooked for us each evening comprising of soup, appetizer, entree, cheese, and dessert. He formulates the menu the morning of or the night before, depending on what is available at local farmers' markets, how his escargots are looking in his personal farm, and how much porcini mushrooms cost that day. One Saturday night, James cooked for us a 7-course dinner comprised of soup, appetizer, meat entree, fish entree, cheese, pre-dessert, and dessert. On Sunday night, Justin and I returned to our bed-n-breakfast after a day of visiting cute hilltop towns only to be disappointed by a lack of 7-course dinner waiting for us! Apparently, Sunday is James's day off. I suppose if God takes Sundays off, James is permitted one day out of the week, too.
James, our chef
James making fresh ravioli
And the best part of all? Retreating to our room upstairs after being baptized with food coma, as we were already home. ZZZzzzz...